The
Banzai Pipeline, or simply "Pipeline" or "Pipe,"
is a surf reef break located off Ehukai Beach Park in Pupukea
on O`ahu's North Shore. A reef break is an area in the ocean
where waves crash once they reach the shallows of a reef.
Pipeline is notorious and famous for its huge waves breaking
in shallow water just above its sharp and cavernous reef,
forming large, hollow and thick curls of water that surfers
can surf inside. There are three reefs at Pipeline in progressively
deeper water further out to sea that activate at various power
levels applied by ocean swells.
The location's compound name combines the name of the surf
break (Pipeline) with the name of the beach fronting it (Banzai
Beach). It got its name in December 1961 when surfing movie
producer Bruce Brown was driving the North Shore with California
surfers Phil Edwards and Mike Diffenderfer. Brown stopped
at the then-unnamed site to film Edwards catching several
waves. At the time, there was a construction project on an
underground pipeline on adjacent Kamehameha Highway, and Diffenderfer
made the suggestion to name the break Pipeline. The name was
first used in Brown's movie Surfing Hollow Days.
Pipeline is best on a strong swell that is pushed from the
west, to clear out the sand in the reef that normally closes
it out (meaning the hollow tube collapses all at once) on
strong north swells. It is a flat tabletop reef, with several
caverns on the inside, creating a giant air bubble that pops
on the front of the wave when the wave lurches upwards just
before breaking. There are also several jagged, underwater
lava spires that can cut up fallen surfers fairly badly.
There are four waves associated with Pipe. The left (which
means the wave breaks from left to right from the perspective
of a watcher on shore) known as Pipeline (a.k.a., First Reef),
is the most commonly surfed and photographed. When the reef
is hit by a north swell, the peak (the highest tipping-point
of the wave where it begins to curl) becomes an A-frame shaped
wave, with Pipe closing out a bit and peeling off left, and
the just-as-famous Backdoor Pipeline peeling away to the right
at the same time. As the size at Pipe increases, over 12 feet
usually, Second Reef on the outside (further out into the
deeper ocean waters) starts breaking, with longer walls (the
steep, unbroken part of the wave that the surfer slides across),
and more size. At an extreme size an area called Third Reef
even further outside starts to break with giant waves.
The extreme challenge posed by Pipeline at size, to even the
best athletes, cannot be overstated. Numerous surfers and
photographers have been killed at Pipe, including Jon Mozo
and Tahitian Malik Joyeux, who was famous for his heavy charging
(gutsy surfing) at Teahupo'o. Pipeline is often called the
world's deadliest wave, since more people have died there,
or have been seriously injured, than at any other surf spot.
The takeoff zone at Pipeline is small but the number of surfers
who flock there when it's breaking is large. Established local
surfers consequently work together to limit outsiders' access
to the waves. The localism and occasional violence of this
self-described "Wolf Pack" (successors in this role
to Da Hui) are often criticized, but their intimidating presence
provides an indispensable degree of crowd control and has
probably prevented even more carnage at Pipe.
Among the many famous surfers to earn a reputation surfing
the Pipeline are Butch Van Artsdalen, Gerry Lopez, Rory Russell,
Shaun Tomson, Kane Quinn, Mark Richards, Michael Ho, Simon
Anderson, Dane Kealoha, Tom Carroll, Gary Elkerton, Sunny
Garcia, Kelly Slater, Jamie O'Brien, Rob Machado, Kala Alexander,
Sunny Boy Gomes, Flynn Novak, John John Florence and bodyboarder
Mike Stewart. Although not famous for surfing Pipeline, Jack
Johnson's fame is partly because of surfing Pipeline. After
a wipeout that put over£200 stitches in his forehead
and knocked a few of his teeth out, his career path veered
from becoming a professional surfer to becoming a musician.
The top surfing competitions at this spot are the Pipe Masters
(Board Surfing), the IBA Pipeline Pro (Bodyboarding), the
and the Pipeline Bodysurfing Classic.
As well as Shaun Tomson 1977 world champion from South Africa,
and Mark Richards four time 1979-1982 world champion from
Australia, surfers Wayne 'Rabbit' Bartholomew 1978 world champion
from Australia and Peter Townen, 1976 world champion from
Australia earned reputations surfing Off-The-Wall and Backdoor
at a time when competitive surfing was coming of age. Off-The-Wall,
and Backdoor are "the rights on the other side of Pipeline"
- Randy Rarick, Director of Hawaiian Triple Crown of Surfing
quoted from the movie "Bustin' Down The Door."